A lower class version of this supportive undergarment, which might have been worn by a farmer’s wife or a lower class servant woman in early 16th century Germany.
12 years ago I made a middle class Frauenrock in a lovely teal colour. I was pleased with this and it got a lot of wear for many years. But the skirt suffered damage at an event where we had a serious norovirus incident, and (along with many other people) I helped scrub the toilet blocks with bleach. The hem and parts of the skirt were damaged by the bleach, so it has sat in my wardrobe ever since, not able to be worn or given away.
Earlier this year I unpicked everything and decided there was enough fabric to make a lower class Unterrock. In addition to the bleach issue, the outside had faded, but the inside is still a lovely colour and the bleach spots are smaller.
After several months pause, I picked up the project again.
Research and Design
Low class versions are the same basic cut, but with wider shoulders, a shorter hem, and no pleats at the side – requiring less fabric than the middle class versions.
In addition to being worn under the Rock (gown) the Unterrock was also worn by the Bauer (farmers) and servants as an outer garment, although always with the neckline covered with a Goller (partlet), and the skirt with a Schürze (apron) – a Doppelschürze, Halbschürze and/or simple Schürze.
Photo: Robyn Spencer
I’m using the pattern I developed for my black worsted Unterrock, adjusting to the lower class design and to make the best use of the recycled fabric.
Construction
As usual, I’m making this with a combination of machine and hand sewing.
First, I cut the canvas for the bodice pieces, then used these as a pattern for the teal fabric. Since the neckline of the Unterrock is cut lower that the Frauenrock and has sewn-on shoulder straps, I can get the back out of the old teal Rock back.
The fronts are the wrong shape, so I cut those from the skirt panel with the worst bleach spots – luckily near the seam edge. This will reduce the skirt size, but I’ll leave the sides unpleated, as seen in artwork from the time.
I steam-shaped twill tape then sewed that along the front edge as reinforcment for the eyelets. Then I sewed the shoulder straps on – overlapped to reduce bulk.
I sewed the straps on the main fabric, then basted the bodice sections to the canvas – I’ll be binding the armscyes, neckline and front opening, so these are cut flush.
The side seams are sewn and pressed, then pickstitched to keep them flat and add extra stiffening to the seam. Then I closed the back shoulder seams – canvas on the machine, outer fabric by hand.
Next, I basted the bodice hem to the canvas, then catch-stitched it in place.
Then I bound and faced the front edges, using a 3cm strip of off-grain fabric, cut from the damaged skirt panel. Basted, sewn and turned, then basted and catch-stitched to the canvas.
Next is binding the neck and armscyes with a 2.5cm strip of the same fabric. I’d usually cut this on the straight from the full fabric width – one piece for the neckline and one for the two armscyes. But I’m working with scraps so the bindings need to be pieced.
I sewed the strips on, then trimmed and bound the open edges – first the front, then the neckline and armscyes), catch-stitching to the canvas all around.
The Unterrock is closed with eyelets down the front, worked through 2 layers of fabric, one of canvas and twill tape, so they are very strong. The bound edge also adds strength and helps reduce puckering – these eyelets will be working hard!
I marked the eyelets – a pair at top and base, then offset for spiral lacing 2.5cm apart.
I use an awl to pierce and open the hole by spreading the threads – much stronger than cutting a hole, since that also cuts and weakens the fabric. I do a quick round of 6-8 stitches to keep the hole open, then fill in between – using the awl frequently to keep the hole open and a nice shape.
To complete the bodice, I basted in the linen lining, starting with the back section and then the fronts. I set the neckline first, then the armscye, trimming and clipping as needed. Then I basted the front just short of the eyelets, then the hem, trimming to fit. Then I slip-stitched everything in place and removed the basting.
Doing it this way (rather than sewing it together first) means you can always line up all the critical areas – armscyes, neckline and hem.
On with the skirt!
We know from both artwork and tailor’s manuals that skirts in 16th century Germany (and many other countries) were cut as circular arcs, not as rectangular panels. And that they were pieced to save fabric.
Because I’m recycling the fabric for this Unterrock, I’m just using the existing panels, trimming the bleach splashes on the hem – and using parts of a panel for the bodice fronts. I won’t have enough fabric for a fully pleated skirt, but the lower class skirts had unpleated sections at the sides, so there will be enough.
I machine sewed, machine basted and then hand-felled the side seams. On the outside, there is no visible machine stitching.
I’m not lining the skirt, so I need to face the top edge before I whip it to the bodice. I cut a facing in raw linen, sewed it along the top, then turned and basted it in place. Then I felled it, trying to pick up just a thread or two so it doesn’t show on the outside.
The creases from the previous iteration are still visible, despite washing and pressing (including with a Rajah cloth). I’m hoping they’ll vanish with wear, but if not, this is a) low class and b) and Unterrock!
I wasn’t sure if the skirt would be long enough and I do have some extra I can add if needed. Easier done while the skirt is separate. So before sewing the skirt on, I thought I’d try on the bodice and hold the skirt against it to check the rough height.
At which point I discovered that I’d made the shoulder straps too short…!
I went back and looked at my pattern and realised I had thought both bodice and straps had seam allowances, but no. So I’m 4cm short. Nothing for it – I must unpick both shoulders, and put in larger straps. I usually test everything with a toile, but this is a pattern I’ve made a few times, so I didn’t. But it’s been a few years…. I’ve marked them very clearly for next time. Sigh.
I unpicked the lining, canvas and outer fabric on both sides and the bindings about halfway around the armscyes and neckline. I hate unpicking something I’ve made so strongly, but needs must…
After a little break (I made a Hemd), I cut new straps and new bindings and then reassembled everything…
On to pleating on the skirt, in 2 passes. The first pass whips the skirt to the bodice and sets the pleat spacing, then the 2nd row squashes the pleats and holds them in place.
With the skirt on, I could check the length. The peasant version is short, but I needed a bit more length to look right. I ended up piecing an extra hem from the scraps (only just enough good fabric left), then sewed this on.
It gave me the extra length, but the horizontal join was too visible, so I added a row of narrow black braid around it to hides the join. I would have preferred it without, but needs must… Then I faced the back of the hem with scraps from my old teal Rock. A bit stiff, but good enough!
Finally, I sewed a hook and eye at the top of the bodice to keep the top corners lined up, then made a lace with aglet for lacing the front.
The finished lower class Unterrock is comfortable, supportive, and short enough for practical tasks. I think this is going to see a lot of use…
As noted in the Research section, this can be worn as a supportive garment under the Rock, but it was also worn by farmers and servants as a main garment – always with a Goller and Schürze.
