Early 16th century linen Haube (coif)

These simple linen Hauben (coifs) were commonly worn by early 16th century German women, of the middle and lower classes.

I love my Steuchlein look (and the Schlappe of course!) but sometimes I want to wear something simpler. Contemporary artwork shows this white linen Haube is one of the most common types of headwear worn by Bauer women (farmers), Burgher women (townsfolk) and Tross (soldier’s wives) in the early 16th century Germanic countries.

This style of Haube come in several variations. The simplest examples appear to be simply gathered at the back of the neck, with no obvious detail as to how this is achieved:

Other examples have the same basic shape, with a distinct rectangular ‘cuff’ at the base which holds the pleats, or even a cuff with pleats beneath, as seen in these examples.

Given the variations, there are probably several different ways these were constructed. I have seen a number of versions made by other people, but none of them looked exactly like the images, and several had sewn pleats (which I know from my own early experiments are difficult to launder).

I did some playing around with ideas last year, but didn’t get very far before other priorities took over. This was clearly something that was going to take a lot of fiddling and thinking…

When Um 1504 posted their version earlier this year, it reminded me I had some early trials which I should get back to! The Um 1504 version looks good and is not sewn together, but it’s an earlier style, with back gathered high with a small flat flap. This is appropriate for c1500, but not the 1520-30 time I focus on.

So I dug out my trials and had another go!

Since this is practical, everyday headwear worn by farmers and working women as well as the middle class, I wanted to find an solution that was:

• Simple and low effort to make
• Easy to put on by myself, including at camping events without a mirror
• Easy to launder, using 16th century tools and techinques – without permanently sewn pleats.

Patterning

Basic Haube

When faced with a design challenge, I find that it’s worth trying several approaches, rather than just my first idea. For this project, I tried many different approaches using scrap fabric, to see what gave the right effect, and to play around with scale and shape.

• Verision 1 – Semicircle gathered with eyelets, as suggested by Um 1504. I used string and a large needle to thread through the cloth in lieu of eyelets. I did a lot of playing with size and spacing. Even 22 eyelets gives very large soft pleats and a narrow ‘tail’, which does not match the look I am after. 40 eyelets was better, but that’s a LOT of eyelets to work. No.

• Version 2 – Hood shape – sewn down the CB, with the remaining volume pleated. My theory was this would reduce the bulk in the centre back, which it did, but it doesn’t look right and I see no evidence of a centre seam in the artwork. No.

• Version 3 – Semicircle gathered with casing. Needed a couple of rounds to adjust sizing. Surprisingly effective, with even pleats and a neat back. Yes!

The self-casing approach looks good for the basic Haube, so I played around with getting exactly the right shape to cover the Wulst neatly, without gaps or excess. I made many versions, none quite right…

In frustration, I reverted to an easier patterning method – putting on all the underlayers and then draping lightweight fabric over my head. I gathered the pleats behind with a rubber band, ensuring they were all taut, then took the whole lot off and cut it at the band!

So easy – this approach will work regardless of your hair and Wulst sizes 🙂

From here, it was a simple job to smooth the curve and make a symmetric pattern. The distinct bulge at the base enables it to fit nicely over the base of my Wulst.

The size will depend on your hair and Wulst size – my version is 66cm wide (at the bulge) by 41cm tall, including seam allowances – 1cm along the front and 2cm around the curve.

Haube with cuff

Basic Haube pattern sorted, so the next trials were on the ‘cuff’ versions, both plain and with pleats hanging below. My early versions had cuffs which were too small, round rather than flat, and the cuff naturally formed an angle.

So how can I get the pleats going into a stiff cuff, which will stay in place during wear?

While looking for a reference image for another project, I suddenly looked again at the pile of clothes in the background of this painting by Altdorfer.

There is a whole Bündlein (‘bulge’ headdress) on top of the coat, which looks just like mine, when I take off everything at once. This confirms my idea of a row of gathers squashed flat, then wrapped around with a strip of linen.

I played with the basic pattern, adding extra to the length and sides, and was able to achieve gathers that could be flattened. But wrapping the base with a strip of fabric ended up with slanted sides – it was insecure and did match the pictures. I could sew on the cuff, perhaps temporarily, but it doesn’t feel right.

Then a friend pointed me at The Sermon of St. Peter in the Uffitzi (thanks Salaberge/Toni!). The ‘cuff’ section of the Haube has a series of dents across the top, which look very like those made by pins. Pins are also seen in other types of linen headwear, such as this earlier Portrait of a Woman from the Hofer family.

So – I tried gathering the back and pinning the middle of the cuff strip before putting the Haube on, then pinning the ends underneath. Yes – this fits my criteria of easy to wear, easy to launder!

The pattern shape is similar to the basic Haube, slightly taller and flatter at the sides to enable the flat bar at the back. My version is 63cm wide (at the bulge) by 43cm tall, plus seam allowances as above. My cuff is 11 x 25cm including seams, but the length will depend how heavy the Huabe linen is and how densely the pleats pack – test with a mockup after you have made the Haube.

Cuff with pleats below

Finally, the cuff with tail of pleats – longer in the middle, and looks like a single layer. To get the effect, I replaced the simple turned hem casing to an applied one and extended the middle of the fabric below the casing to create the longer pleats. Once gathered, the cuff is pinned on in the same way.

This mockup looks like it works – but it’s not a style I’m likely to wear often. So for now, I’ll just make the plain and cuffed versions.

Construction

Simple version

After all the work to get a pattern, the construction is very simple!

I started by cutting out my Haube in a fine, dense linen, allowing 1cm for a narrow hem on the straight edge and 2cm for the casing around the curved edge. Since these are everyday items, I’m using fine linen thread rather than silk, waxing the thread to make sewing easier.

I turned a 5mm hem along the front edge, then folded again, basted and hemmed using a single thread. For the casing, I turned and pressed a 5mm edge, then turned a 1.5cm casing and basted this in place, easing around the curves to minimise pleats. Then I felled the edge down with a double thread, securing the ends very well, since they will take the strain of the drawstring.

I threaded 3mm tape through the casing, and finshed the ends to avoid fraying. To stop the ends vanishing into the casing, I sewed the tape in place at the centre back.

If I had nice long hair, I’d braid this into 2 plaits, tie them over my head and then tie on a soft padded Wulst (padded roll). I’d wear an Umbindelein (headband) to avoide a wispy fringe, then put on the Haube. But since I have very short hair, I start with the same base layers as my Steuchlein – tie on the Umbinderlein, add my stiff Wulst and tie it on with my Unterhaube (undercap).

To prepare the Haube, I gather most of the fabric along the tape into the centre back. I put the Haube on over my Wulst and pull the rest of the gathers in tight at the back, then tie a bow and stuff all the ends inside.

The simple Haube is neat and easy to wear – perfect for simpler outfits when you don’t want an elaborate Steuchlein!

This simple Haube can also be decorated, and/or worn with a Schleier (veil) over the top, such as seen in Traut’s Portrait of a Woman.

Cuffed version

The basic construction is the same as the simple Haube, with a fine front hem, a hem-casing around the curved edge, and a fine tape run through the casing.

For the cuffed version, I leave a little gap in the casing at centre back and pull through a loop of tape, then sew it in place. This allows me to thread the drawstrings back through the loop, to keep the pleats squashed flat.

For the ‘cuff’, I made up a strip of the same linen (11 x25cm). I sewed a heavier linen lining to one edge to keep it in place when washing, then turned and pressed the edges. I folded up the back lining and sewed it all around.

To wear it, I gather the Haube to the centre along the tape, thread the ends through the loop, then pin or baste 3/4 of cuff onto the pleats at the back and side, leaving the ends free.

Pinning makes it easy to undo the gathers to wash the Haube, but can be tricky to set and wear without pricking yourself, and the pins can loosen in wear. Basting takes a little longer to do and unpick for washing, but is easier to put on and off and wear. The Haube can usually be worn several times in between washes.

With the underlayers (Umbinderlein, Wulst, Unterhaube) in place, I gather most of the fabric along the tape into the centre back. I put the Haube on over my Wulst and pull the rest of the gathers in tight, then tie a bow and stuff the ends inside.

Then I fold the ends of the cuff behind the pleated section and pin together to complete the cuff. This version is worn as is, without a Schleier (veil).

This cuffed version looks the same as the basic version from the front, but the back shows the distinctive tail seen in so many contemporary images of lower and middle class German women.

I’m really happy with the effect!

I know there are other ways to make these simple Hauben, but this seems like a practical, supportable approach – and fulfills all my aims: simple to make, wear and launder.